Monday, December 3, 2007

Day 09 – June 13 – Wednesday

(Boat Ride across Sea of Galilee, Capernaum, Tabgha, Golan Heights)

Our day began as it usually did, up at 6:00 and down to the restaurant for a wonderful buffet breakfast at 6:30. I still can’t get past the chocolate syrup for pancakes – and I am a huge fan of chocolate.

Sea of Galilee

Our touring day began with the group walking from the hotel down to the boat docks on the Lake Tiberias (Sea of Galilee) and boarded an old wooden sailing ship for our trip across the lake. It wasn’t much of a walk – maybe 10 minutes, but the sun was already out and it was warm. There was room for 46 of us – about 20 sitting on some folding chairs on the deck and the remaining 26 people seated on benches on both sides of the ship. As we left the shore, the Israeli crew hoisted the American flag next to the Israeli flag and played our national anthem over the ship’s speakers. It was a little corny but kind of nice too. About 1/3 of the way across, a crew member reenacted the fishing method used by the
Apostles in Biblical times. He threw a fishing net
(supposedly made like one used long ago) into the water intent on catching fish. He tried twice and the net came up empty both times.

About ½ ways across, the boat came to a stop and Pastor Rick led us in devotions. He reminded us that we are on the same body of water that we read about in Matthew 14:22-36, where Jesus walked on the water:

The “after this” in the verse below refers to when Jesus fed the 5,000 with five loaves of bread and two fish. (Matthew 14: 13-21)

22 Immediately after this, Jesus insisted that his disciples get back into the boat and cross to the other side of the lake, while he sent the people home. 23 After sending them home, he went up into the hills by himself to pray. Night fell while he was there alone. 24 Meanwhile, the disciples were in trouble far away from land, for a strong wind had risen, and they were fighting heavy waves. 25 About three o’clock in the morning* Jesus came toward them, walking on the water. 26 When the disciples saw him walking on the water, they were terrified. In their fear, they cried out, “It’s a ghost!” 27 But Jesus spoke to them at once. “Don’t be afraid,” he said. “Take courage. I am here! 28 Then Peter called to him, “Lord, if it’s really you, tell me to come to you, walking on the water.” 29 “Yes, come,” Jesus said. So Peter went over the side of the boat and walked on the water toward Jesus. 30 But when he saw the strong* wind and the waves, he was terrified and began to sink. “Save me, Lord!” he shouted. 31 Jesus immediately reached out and grabbed him. “You have so little faith,” Jesus said. “Why did you doubt me?” 32 When they climbed back into the boat, the wind stopped. 33 Then the disciples worshiped him. “You really are the Son of God!” they exclaimed. 34 After they had crossed the lake, they landed at Gennesaret. 35 When the people recognized Jesus, the news of his arrival spread quickly throughout the whole area, and soon people were bringing all their sick to be healed. 36 They begged him to let the sick touch at least the fringe of his robe, and all who touched him were healed.

Cathy, Pastor Rick’s wife, is very much a partner in the devotions. She usually has something to share, seemingly unrehearsed, but from the heart and so moving. In addition to her devotional, Cathy led us in singing ‘Jesus, There’s Just Something About That Name.’ We didn’t all know the words, and for those who didn’t, some hummed sweetly and others lip-synched perfectly.

Lake Tiberias is fed mainly from the upper Jordan River as it descends from its mountain headwaters to the Jordan Rift Valley. The lake is bounded to its east and west by cliffs that rise from 300 feet to more than 1,200 feet above the lake. The surface area of the lake is 55 square miles; and the average and maximum depths are about 82 feet and 135 feet, respectively. The water was calm while we were there. However, it can become a very dangerous place if the wind begins to blow. About an hour and fifteen minutes after we left the dock, we landed on the other side in Capernaum. After a quick restroom break, we boarded the bus and headed to Tabgha.

Capernaum/Tabgha

The dual site of Tabgha today contains two Catholic shrines built in the twentieth century; The Church of the Multiplication and the Church of the Primacy of Peter. The Church of the Multiplication was built to honor the miracle of Jesus feeding the 5,000 with five loaves of bread and two fish. (Matthew 14: 13-21). The Church of the Primacy of Peter relates to the story told about Jesus appearing on this site to His disciples. Peter and other disciples were fishing on the Sea of Galilee without luck, until Jesus appeared and told them to cast the nets. The disciples did and were finally able to have a great catch. Jesus and his disciples then had fish breakfast, and it was also here when Jesus uttered the words “Feed my Sheep” three times as a commandment to Peter. This was the establishment of the Primacy of Peter.

These modern churches are built over the ruins of ancient fourth and fifth century structures. Parts of the ancient fourth century foundations can still be seen in the Church of the First Feeding. In that church we saw some of the finest mosaic floors in Israel. These mosaics from the fifth century include the famous one of the loaves and fishes. Next, we saw the Church of Peter Primacy and ancient mosaic of the Loaves and Fishes. We didn’t waste any time. After a short stay in Tabgha, we boarded the bus and headed for the Mount of Beatitudes.

Mount of Beatitudes

The traditional location for the Mount of Beatitudes is on the northwestern shore of the Sea of Galilee, between Capernaum and Gennesaret (Ginosar). The actual location of the Sermon on the Mount is not certain, but the present site (also known as Mount Eremos) has been commemorated for more than 1600 years. The site is very near Tabgha.

The so-called "Sermon on the Mount" is recorded in Matthew 5-7 and Luke 6. The alleged discrepancy between Matthew's version being on a hill and Luke's being on a level place is easily reconciled with observation of many level places on the Galilean hillsides. Scripture gives no indication of the exact location of this event. The mountain is topped by a Catholic chapel built in 1939 by the Franciscan Sisters. We walked the grounds and settled in a shady spot with benches as Pastor Rick read portions of the ‘Sermon on the Mount’. After the reading, Cathy Cole led us in singing ‘Peace, Peace, Wonderful Peace.’ Since we were on the Mount of Beatitudes, it seems appropriate to include the Beatitudes in this journal:

Blessed are the poor in spirit: for theirs is the kingdom of heaven. Blessed are they that mourn: for they shall be comforted. Blessed are the meek: for they shall inherit the earth. Blessed are they which do hunger and thirst after righteousness: for they shall be filled. Blessed are the merciful: for they shall obtain mercy. Blessed are the pure in heart: for they shall see God. Blessed are the peacemakers: for they shall be called the children of God. Blessed are they which are persecuted for righteousness’ sake: for theirs is the kingdom of heaven. Blessed are ye, when men shall revile you, and persecute you, and shall say all manner of evil against you falsely, for my sake" (Matt 5:3-11 KJV).

Lunch time in Israel is always a surprise. Typically, we are nowhere near a city where there would be a selection of restaurants to choose from. Apparently, the ‘locals’ realize this, they know the tour routes and the timing of the tours, so the ‘locals’ erect a restaurant in the middle of nowhere and that just happens to be the place we are ‘forced’ to eat. The name of today’s 5-star eating establishment is called the Tanureen Oriental Restaurant. Cathy had lamb kabobs. Shannon had chicken. I had what was called St. Peter’s fish from the Sea of Galilee and was assured that it was the best choice on the menu. I was served a cooked fish – head, skin and all – and it was an ugly fish. The value of this lunch may have been $20 for all three of us, and yet the bill said $57. It was a lousy lunch but the restaurant was the only show in town. I think most of the group thought we were taken advantage of. Rimon, our guide, got the word and something like that didn’t happen again. That’s not to say that we didn’t get lousy food again, because we usually did. The difference is that we were not overcharged for the lousy food. J

Dan (Lebanon and Syria Border)

The afternoon travels began with a drive along Israel’s northern border with Lebanon and Syria. In the Bible, this area was known as Dan. We read in Genesis 14:14-16:

14 When Abram heard that his nephew Lot had been captured, he mobilized the 318 trained men who had been born into his household. Then he pursued Kedorlaomer’s army until he caught up with them at Dan. 15 There he divided his men and attacked during the night. Kedorlaomer’s army fled, but Abram chased them as far as Hobah, north of Damascus. 16 Abram recovered all the goods that had been taken, and he brought back his nephew Lot with his possessions and all the women and other captives.

We saw an electric fence separating Israel from Lebanon and Syria with barbed wire on the top. We passed a sign that said ‘Danger Mines’. We noted that the area along the fence line is patrolled – kind of made me wonder what we were doing there. Really, this was just a drive by on our way to Caesarea Philippi.

Caesarea Philippi

Caesarea Philippi (originally Panias) was located two miles east of the site of Dan, twenty-five miles north of the Sea of Galilee and forty miles southwest of the ancient city of Damascus. The site is 1,150 feet above sea level and ten miles south of the 9,200-foot Mount Hermon. Pagan worship was often conducted near running water, a probable reason why Panias, originally a worship center, was located in the vicinity of the three streams flowing from Mount Hermon. (Judg 3:3). A major feature of the site is a massive rock face from which flows one of the streams that form the Jordan River. The Jordan River has four main sources, and the cave at Caesarea Philippi is its easternmost source.

Yardenit

Back on the bus and headed to Yardenit – the baptismal site on the Jordan River. The Baptismal site is situated at the Southern end of the Sea of Galilee, at the place where the Jordan River flows out of the Sea on its way down to the Dead Sea. Along with Capernaum, Mount of the Beatitudes and Tabgha, it is one of the most important sites in this area. The three of us, as well as many others in the group, were baptized by Pastors Rick and Randy as a public confession of our faith in Jesus Christ. Cathy went first and was crying as soon as her feet hit the water. Shannon was second and I was last. We all had a nice family hug in the Jordan River as we pondered being baptized in the same river as our Savior – what an incredible experience. The first chapter of the Book of Matthew describes how John the Baptist baptized Jesus:

5 All of Judea, including all the people of Jerusalem, went out to see and hear John. And when they confessed their sins, he baptized them in the Jordan River. 6 His clothes were woven from coarse camel hair, and he wore a leather belt around his waist. For food he ate locusts and wild honey. 7 John announced: “Someone is coming soon who is greater than I am—so much greater that I’m not even worthy to stoop down like a slave and untie the straps of his sandals. 8 I baptize you with* water, but he will baptize you with the Holy Spirit!” 9 One day Jesus came from Nazareth in Galilee, and John baptized him in the Jordan River. 10 As Jesus came up out of the water, he saw the heavens splitting apart and the Holy Spirit descending on him* like a dove. 11 And a voice from heaven said, “You are my dearly loved Son, and you bring me great joy.” (Matt 1:5-11)

You’ve got to be wondering about the ‘mechanics’ of the baptism. We were told the night before that we would have the opportunity to be baptized in the Jordan River and that we should bring a bathing suit and towel onto the bus if we chose to be baptized. After leaving Caesarea Philippi, our bus driver drove like he was possessed because the baptism site is open during specific hours. We arrived shortly before closing, paid our $6 to rent a white robe, went into our respective changing rooms and changed into the white robe, and then headed down to the river. We lined up in single file and were baptized one by one until we were all through. After the baptism, we walked back to the changing room to shower and change back into our clothes. Then, it was back on the bus and back to the Sheraton Moriah in Tiberias for dinner and overnight.

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